Rosslyn Chapel, the chapel of mysteries

Rosslyn Chapel is a small 15th-century church in the village of Roslin, about 11 kilometres south of Edinburgh, famous all over the world for its extraordinary stone carvings and for the legends that surround it: the Knights Templar, the Holy Grail, the Freemasons. Since 2003, when Dan Brown chose it for the finale of The Da Vinci Code, it has become a place of pilgrimage for readers and the curious. But even without the mysteries, it remains one of the masterpieces of Scottish medieval art.

History

The chapel was founded in 1446 by William Sinclair, 1st Earl of Caithness and lord of Roslin, as a collegiate church dedicated to St Matthew, where a group of priests were to pray for the family. The original plan was for a large cross-shaped church, but when Sinclair died in 1484 only the choir had been completed, the building we see today. After the Protestant Reformation the chapel was abandoned and damaged, and in 1650 Cromwell's troops stabled their horses in it. It was restored several times in the 19th century, when Queen Victoria visited and recommended its preservation, and a major restoration lasting several years was completed in 2013. It is still a working church of the Scottish Episcopal Church.

What to see

The carvings

Every inch of the interior is covered with carvings: musician angels, saints, dragons, biblical scenes, plants and animals. There are more than a hundred "green men", human faces sprouting leaves and branches, ancient symbols of rebirth and nature. Among the decorations around a window arch, some scholars see ears resembling maize, an American plant, and have cited them as evidence of voyages to the New World before Columbus; others interpret them simply as stylised plant motifs.

The Apprentice Pillar

The most famous piece is the Apprentice Pillar, a column wrapped in spirals of foliage carved with incredible delicacy. According to legend, the master mason went abroad to study a model and, on his return, found the column already carved by one of his apprentices, far more beautiful than he could have made it: blinded by jealousy, he killed him with a blow of his mallet. In the chapel you can see a carved head with a wound on the forehead, identified as the apprentice.

The musical cubes and the crypt

On the ceiling arches are carved 213 cubes with geometric patterns which, according to some researchers, represent a hidden musical score. A staircase leads down to the crypt, older and more austere, perhaps used as a sacristy. The visitor centre tells the story of the chapel, the Sinclair family and the legends, honestly separating facts from theories.

Practical information

To protect the interior, photography and filming are not allowed inside the chapel. Guides give short free talks at set times. On Sunday mornings the chapel is open for worship. Visitor numbers are limited at peak times, so it is best to book online and check opening times and prices on the official website.

Getting there

• By bus: from Edinburgh on city bus number 37 towards Penicuik/Roslin, about 45 minutes from the centre.
• By car: about 25 minutes from central Edinburgh, following the A701; parking at the chapel.
• By air: Edinburgh Airport is about half an hour away by car.

Nearby

• Roslin Glen, a wooded valley along the River North Esk, with paths and the ruins of Roslin Castle, reachable on foot from the chapel.
• The Pentland Hills, with walking trails a few minutes away.
• Edinburgh with its castle and the Royal Mile; see also day trips from Edinburgh.

Tips

• How long: an hour and a half for the chapel and visitor centre; half a day with the walk in the glen.
• When to go: all year round; early morning or late afternoon is quieter.
• A tip: listen to the guides' talk before exploring on your own: they will point out hidden details that are easy to miss.

Rosslyn Chapel on the map

Nearby