The Royal Pavilion, Brighton's exotic palace

The Royal Pavilion in Brighton is one of the most extravagant palaces in Europe: outside it looks like an Indian palace, with onion domes and minarets, inside it is a riot of dragons, lanterns and Chinese decoration. It was built for the Prince of Wales, later King George IV, who loved Brighton, the sea and parties. Today it is a museum that brings back the splendour of the Regency era in the early 19th century, and it is the symbol of the city.

History

In 1783 the young Prince George visited Brighton, then a fashionable resort thanks to the sea bathing recommended by doctors, and fell in love with it. A few years later he rented a farmhouse which the architect Henry Holland transformed in 1787 into a neoclassical villa, the Marine Pavilion. Here the prince spent long periods with his secret wife, Maria Fitzherbert, and his friends.

On becoming Prince Regent in 1811, George wanted a grander palace. Between 1815 and 1822 the architect John Nash transformed it into the building we see today, with an exterior inspired by Mughal Indian architecture and interiors decorated in the Chinese style that was so fashionable at the time. Queen Victoria did not like it, as it was too exposed to the gaze of the crowds, and in 1850 the government sold it to the town of Brighton.

During the First World War the palace became a hospital for Indian soldiers wounded on the Western Front. In remembrance, in 1921 the Indian princes gave the town the India Gate, at the southern entrance to the gardens.

What to see

The Banqueting Room

The Banqueting Room is the most spectacular room: a huge chandelier weighing almost a tonne hangs from the claws of a silver dragon, beneath a ceiling painted with palm leaves. The walls are decorated with Chinese scenes, and the table is laid as if for one of the king's legendary banquets, which could include dozens of dishes.

The Great Kitchen

The Great Kitchen was among the most modern of its time, with spits turned by the heat of the fire and tall iron columns shaped like palm trees. The famous French chef Marie-Antoine Carême worked here. Next to it you can see the original copper pans.

The Music Room and the apartments

The Music Room, with its domed ceiling covered in gilded scales, lotus-flower chandeliers and red and gold paintings, is one of the most sumptuous rooms. You can also visit the saloon, the long gallery with its fake bamboo made of iron, and the private apartments of the king and of Queen Victoria.

The gardens

The Royal Pavilion Garden has been restored to Nash's original design, with Regency flower beds and shrubs. It is free to enter and is one of the locals' favourite places for a break. Next to it are the Brighton Museum & Art Gallery and the Brighton Dome, the prince's former stables turned into a concert hall.

Practical information

The palace is open all year, except over Christmas. Flash photography is not allowed. In winter an ice rink is set up in the grounds. Audio guides help you discover the stories of the palace. Opening times and prices are on the official website.

Getting there

• By train: from London Victoria or London Bridge to Brighton in about an hour; the palace is a 10-minute walk from the station.
• By air: Gatwick Airport is about 30 minutes away by train.
• In town: the palace is in the centre, near the Lanes and the seafront.

Nearby

• The Brighton Palace Pier and the seafront, and the i360 observation tower.
• The alleys of the Lanes and North Laine, with independent shops and cafés.
• The white cliffs of the Seven Sisters and the South Downs National Park. See also Brighton.

Tips

• How long: an hour and a half to two hours for the palace and gardens.
• When to go: all year round; on rainy days it is the perfect visit in Brighton.
• A tip: look closely at the details: many of the "bamboos" and "marbles" are actually painted iron or wood, one of the king's favourite tricks.

Royal Pavilion (Brighton) on the map

Nearby