Edinburgh is compact, but each neighbourhood has a well-defined character. Knowing them helps you choose where to stay, where to eat and how to plan your days.
Old Town
The medieval core, along the Royal Mile and the closes dropping off it: the castle, St Giles, Holyrood, the Grassmarket with its pubs, Victoria Street with its colourful shops, the Cowgate with its nightlife. It is the most atmospheric and most touristy area; in August it becomes the stage of the Fringe.
New Town
The Georgian city built from 1767 north of Princes Street Gardens, with its grid of streets, squares and private gardens. Princes Street is the shopping street, George Street the street of smart bars and restaurants, Rose Street of pubs. Further north, residential streets such as Heriot Row and Moray Place are among the finest examples of Georgian architecture in Europe.
Stockbridge and Dean Village
Stockbridge is a former village that has become one of the best-loved districts: independent shops, cafés, delis and a Sunday market of local produce. A little upstream, along the Water of Leith, Dean Village is a 19th-century mill village in a green setting, minutes from the centre but far from traffic. The riverside path leads to the modern art galleries and, in the other direction, to the botanic garden.
Leith
The city's old port, to the north, for centuries an independent burgh, was long a working-class and rough district, made famous by the novel Trainspotting. Today it is one of the liveliest areas, with seafood restaurants along The Shore, several Michelin-starred restaurants, bars and distilleries, the Royal Yacht Britannia and the Ocean Terminal shopping centre. The tram links it to the centre.
Bruntsfield, Marchmont and the Meadows
South of the Old Town, around the large park of the Meadows, lie residential and student districts close to the university. Bruntsfield has a street of independent shops and cafés, Marchmont Victorian sandstone tenements home to students and families.
Southside and Newington
Between the university and Holyrood Park, with many ethnic restaurants, B&Bs and cheaper accommodation, handy for climbing Arthur's Seat.
Portobello
The city beach, to the east, with a Victorian promenade, cafés and the historic swimming baths with a Turkish bath. In summer it is locals' favourite destination on sunny days.
Haymarket and West End
Around the second railway station, well linked to the airport by tram, with many hotels, the Lyceum theatre and the Usher Hall for classical music.
See also what to see in Edinburgh, practical information and the Edinburgh guide.