Every August Edinburgh turns into the biggest showcase of performing arts on the planet. Theatres, churches, lecture halls, pubs, courtyards and even taxis and public toilets become stages, and the city's population doubles. Here is how to find your way.
The Edinburgh International Festival
It was born in 1947, two years after the end of the war, with the idea of providing "a platform for the flowering of the human spirit" by bringing together artists from all over Europe. For three weeks it presents classical music, opera, theatre and dance with the world's best orchestras, companies and soloists, in the city's main venues such as the Usher Hall, the Festival Theatre and the King's Theatre.
The Fringe
In that same year, 1947, eight uninvited theatre companies turned up anyway and staged their shows on the fringe of the official festival. Since then the Edinburgh Festival Fringe has grown into the largest performing arts festival in the world, with thousands of shows every year in hundreds of venues. It has no artistic director: anyone who finds a venue can take part. It is best known for comedy, but there is everything: theatre, cabaret, music, dance, circus, children's shows. Many British comedians and actors were discovered here. On the Royal Mile, during the day, street performers and companies promote their shows by handing out flyers.
The other August festivals
- Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo: the evening spectacle of military bands, pipers and dancers on the castle esplanade, ending with fireworks.
- Edinburgh International Book Festival: events with writers from around the world.
- Edinburgh Art Festival: exhibitions in the city's galleries.
Hogmanay and other festivals of the year
The Scottish New Year, Hogmanay, is celebrated with a torchlight procession, open-air concerts and a big street party in the centre with fireworks over the castle at midnight, followed by the singing of Auld Lang Syne (tickets are needed for the party area). During the year there are also the science festival in spring, the jazz and blues festival in July, the film festival in June and the storytelling festival in October.
Tips for August
- Book accommodation many months ahead: prices in August can triple. University residences offer temporary rooms.
- Tickets: the Fringe programme comes out in June; many shows cost £10-20, and there is also the Free Fringe and pay-what-you-want shows.
- Times: shows run from morning to late at night, often last an hour, and you can see four or five a day.
- Tattoo: tickets must be bought well in advance.
See also practical information and the Edinburgh guide.