St Michael's Mount, the tidal island

St Michael's Mount is a granite island in Mount's Bay, Cornwall, opposite the small town of Marazion, crowned by a castle and a medieval church. Like the more famous Mont-Saint-Michel in Normandy, with which it shares its history, it is a tidal island: at low tide you can walk across on an ancient stone causeway, at high tide you cross by boat. A small community still lives on the island, along with the St Aubyn family, who have lived in the castle for more than 350 years.

History

According to legend, in 495 the Archangel Michael appeared to some fishermen on this rock, which thus became a place of pilgrimage. In the 11th century the island was given to the Benedictine monks of Mont-Saint-Michel, who founded a priory here. In the Middle Ages, because of its strategic position, the mount was also turned into a fortress, and it was fought over during the Wars of the Roses and the English Civil War. In 1659 it was bought by Colonel John St Aubyn, and his family has lived there ever since, turning the fortress into a home. In 1954 the family gave the island to the National Trust, while keeping the right to live there.

A popular legend tells that the giant Cormoran lived on the mount, stealing cattle from the farmers, until a boy called Jack lured him into a trap: this is the origin of the tale of Jack the Giant Killer. Along the path to the castle you are shown a heart-shaped stone, the "giant's heart".

What to see

The castle and the church

A steep climb up a cobbled path leads to the castle at the top of the island. You visit the family rooms, with furniture, portraits and weapons, the Chevy Chase Room, the old monks' refectory with a frieze of hunting scenes, and the blue drawing rooms in 18th-century Gothic style. At the summit stands the 12th-century church, still used for services, with beautiful stained glass. From the terraces the view over the bay, Penzance and the Cornish coast is spectacular.

The gardens

On the southern side of the island, plunging down to the sea, are the terraced gardens, where thanks to the mild climate and the heat stored in the rock, subtropical plants such as agaves, aloes and succulents from all over the world thrive. They are open in spring and summer, on different days from the castle.

The harbour and the village

At the foot of the mount lies the small harbour, with the islanders' houses, a café, a restaurant and a few shops. You can see the old underground railway that carries supplies up to the castle and admire the causeway emerging from the water as the tide goes out.

Practical information

The castle and gardens have seasonal opening days and times, and are generally closed on Saturdays; it is best to book online and check the tide times on the official website. The causeway can only be walked at low tide, roughly two hours either side of low water; at high tide you take one of the boats from Marazion. The climb to the castle is steep and uneven, not suitable for pushchairs or people with limited mobility.

Getting there

• By train: from London Paddington to Penzance in about five hours, including the Night Riviera sleeper; then bus or taxi to Marazion, about 5 kilometres away.
• By car: pay car parks in Marazion, opposite the island.
• By air: Newquay Airport is about an hour away; flights to the Isles of Scilly also leave from Land's End.

Nearby

• Penzance, with its promenade and the art deco Jubilee Pool, and the fishing village of Mousehole.
• St Ives, with its beaches and art museums, about half an hour away.
• Land's End, England's westernmost point, and the open-air Minack Theatre, carved into the cliff.

Tips

• How long: half a day for the castle, gardens and harbour.
• When to go: April to September; always check the tide times before setting off.
• A tip: walk across at low tide and come back by boat when the water rises: you will experience both faces of the island.

St Michael's Mount on the map

Nearby