Holyroodhouse, Mary Queen of Scots' palace

The Palace of Holyroodhouse, at the foot of the Royal Mile in Edinburgh, is the official residence of the British monarch in Scotland. It stands beside the ruins of a medieval abbey, below the hill of Arthur's Seat, and is linked above all to Mary, Queen of Scots, who lived the most dramatic years of her life here. When the King is not in residence, the State Apartments and the historic apartments are open to the public.

History

According to legend, in 1128 King David I of Scotland, while hunting in this area, was attacked by a stag and was saved when a cross appeared between the animal's antlers. In gratitude he founded an abbey here dedicated to the Holy Cross, in Scots the Holy Rood. Scottish kings often stayed in the abbey guesthouse, and at the beginning of the 16th century James IV built a proper palace next to it.

In 1561 Mary, Queen of Scots returned from France and settled at Holyrood. Here she married her second husband, Lord Darnley, and here, in March 1566, before her eyes, her Italian secretary David Rizzio was murdered by a group of nobles led by Darnley himself. In the 17th century, after the Restoration, the palace was largely rebuilt for Charles II by the architect William Bruce. In 1745 Bonnie Prince Charlie held court here for a few weeks. Every summer the monarch still spends a week of ceremonies and receptions at Holyrood.

What to see

The State Apartments

The visit, with an audio guide, begins with the grand staircase and continues through the 17th-century State Apartments, with decorated plaster ceilings, tapestries and furniture still used today for official receptions. The Great Gallery, the largest room in the palace, is hung with portraits of the kings of Scotland, real and legendary, painted at the end of the 17th century by the Dutch painter Jacob de Wet: many have curiously similar faces.

Mary, Queen of Scots' Chambers

A spiral staircase leads up to James IV's tower, where you find Mary, Queen of Scots' Chambers: the audience chamber, the bedchamber and the small supper room where Rizzio was killed. A plaque marks the spot where, according to tradition, his body fell. Objects connected with the queen are on display, including embroideries and jewellery.

The abbey and the gardens

Behind the palace stand the Gothic ruins of Holyrood Abbey, with its roofless nave and windows open to the sky, which inspired the composer Felix Mendelssohn's Scottish Symphony. In summer you can visit the gardens, with views of Arthur's Seat.

The Queen's Gallery

At the entrance to the palace, the Queen's Gallery hosts temporary exhibitions of works from the Royal Collection.

Practical information

The palace is open for most of the year, but closes when the monarch is in residence, mainly between late June and early July; check the dates and book online. Opening times and prices are on the Royal Collection website.

Getting there

• On foot: at the bottom of the Royal Mile, about 15 minutes from Waverley station.
• By bus: several routes stop nearby.
• By air: Edinburgh Airport is about 40 minutes away by tram and bus.

Nearby

• Arthur's Seat, the extinct volcano in Holyrood Park, with a splendid view of the city.
• The Scottish Parliament, a modern building designed by Enric Miralles, right opposite.
• The castle and the Royal Mile, the Camera Obscura and the Royal Yacht Britannia.

Tips

• How long: an hour and a half to two hours.
• When to go: all year round, avoiding the monarch's week in residence.
• A tip: after your visit, climb Arthur's Seat, about an hour's walk: from the top you see the palace from above, together with the whole city.

Holyroodhouse on the map

Nearby