Edinburgh is a city to discover on foot, climbing and descending between hills, steps and closes. The main sights are concentrated in the Old Town and New Town, a UNESCO site, but the finest views are won on the hills. Here is what not to miss.
Old Town
- The castle: the fortress on its volcanic rock, with the Honours of Scotland and St Margaret's Chapel (see the castle and the Royal Mile).
- The Royal Mile: the medieval street running down from the castle to Holyrood, with St Giles' Cathedral, the 17th-century Gladstone's Land and dozens of closes.
- The Palace of Holyroodhouse and the abbey ruins: the sovereign's Scottish residence, with Mary Queen of Scots' chambers.
- The Scottish Parliament: the contemporary building by Catalan architect Enric Miralles, opened in 2004, free to visit.
- The Grassmarket and Victoria Street: the old market square with its historic pubs and the curving street of colourful shops said to have inspired Harry Potter's Diagon Alley.
- Greyfriars Kirkyard and the statue of Bobby the dog.
- Mary King's Close: the 17th-century underground streets, visited on guided tours.
New Town
- Princes Street and its gardens: the shopping street overlooking the green valley of Princes Street Gardens, with the Gothic Scott Monument, which you can climb.
- George Street, Charlotte Square and Moray Place: the heart of Georgian elegance; the Georgian House in Charlotte Square shows how a well-off 18th-century family lived.
- The Scottish National Gallery on the Mound and the Scottish National Portrait Gallery.
- Dean Village and Stockbridge: the mill village on the Water of Leith and the district of independent shops with a Sunday market.
The hills
- Arthur's Seat: the extinct volcano in Holyrood Park, 251 metres high, about a 45-minute climb from Holyrood Palace, with a 360-degree view.
- Calton Hill: a few minutes' walk from Princes Street, with the National Monument, the Nelson Monument and views of the castle and Leith harbour, magical at sunset.
Museums and other attractions
- National Museum of Scotland: history, science and nature, with Dolly the sheep; free, with a rooftop terrace.
- Camera Obscura and World of Illusions: a Victorian attraction at the top of the Royal Mile.
- Scotch Whisky Experience: the tour of Scotch whisky.
- Royal Botanic Garden: 28 hectares of gardens and glasshouses north of the New Town.
- Royal Yacht Britannia in Leith and Portobello beach.
- Edinburgh Zoo, with its penguin parade.
Tips
The castle and Holyroodhouse charge admission and are best booked online; almost all museums are free. A first visit needs at least two full days, three to climb Arthur's Seat and explore Leith at leisure. Back to the Edinburgh guide or see the neighbourhoods.