The pub, short for public house, is much more than a bar: it is the living room of the neighbourhood or village, the place where people meet after work, watch the match, have Sunday lunch, take part in the Tuesday night quiz or chat with strangers. Understanding the pub means understanding a piece of the British soul.
A little history
Its origins go back to Roman taverns and Anglo-Saxon alehouses, where home-brewed ale was drunk. In the Middle Ages inns welcomed travellers and pilgrims along the main roads. Many pubs claim to be the oldest in England: Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem in Nottingham dates its history to 1189, at the time of the Crusades, although historians are sceptical. In the 18th and 19th centuries the great breweries appeared, along with sumptuous Victorian pubs with etched glass, mirrors and carved wood, some of which are now listed buildings. For centuries opening hours were strictly regulated, with closing at 11pm; since 2005 a new law has allowed more flexible hours, but the custom of the bell announcing last orders remains.
How it works
- Order at the bar: in most pubs there is no table service for drinks. You go to the bar, order and pay straight away. For food, you often order at the bar, giving your table number.
- Measures: beer is served by the pint, 568 millilitres, or the half pint.
- Rounds: among friends each person takes a turn buying a round of drinks for the whole group; skipping your round is frowned upon.
- No tipping: tips are not left in pubs, but you can offer the bartender a drink with the phrase and one for yourself.
- Children: many pubs welcome families during the day, especially if they serve food; in the evening rules vary. The minimum age for buying alcohol is 18.
What to drink
Traditional British beer is real ale, or cask ale, a top-fermented beer that continues to mature in the cask in the cellar and is drawn by hand with beer engines, served at cellar temperature and lightly carbonated. Styles include bitter, amber and hoppy, mild, dark and smooth, dark porters and stouts, and IPA, created in the 19th century for the troops in India. Since 1971 the CAMRA campaign has defended traditional beer. In recent years thousands of craft breweries have opened. Pubs also serve lager, cider, gin, whisky and wine, and more and more non-alcoholic drinks.
Food and traditions
Pub food, pub grub, includes fish and chips, pies, burgers, daily specials and, on Sundays, the Sunday roast (see British food). Some pubs have become real quality restaurants, known as gastropubs. Traditions include the pub quiz, darts, pool, live music and football or rugby on television. Pub names, with their painted signs, tell a story: Red Lion, the most common, Crown, Royal Oak, inspired by the oak in which the future Charles II hid, King's Head and many more.
An institution under pressure
In recent decades thousands of pubs have closed, especially in villages, because of rising costs, beer duty, energy prices, the smoking ban of 2007 and changing habits, with young people drinking less alcohol. Today there are about 45,000 pubs left in the UK. In many villages residents have joined forces to buy their local pub and run it as a cooperative, to save an irreplaceable meeting place.
See also London's pubs, Edinburgh's pubs and travel tips.