Iona is a small island in the Inner Hebrides, off the south-western tip of the Isle of Mull in Scotland. Just five kilometres long, it is one of the most important places in the history of European Christianity: here in the 6th century the Irish monk St Columba founded a monastery from which missionaries set out to convert Scotland and northern England. White sandy beaches, turquoise water and a stone abbey give it a unique atmosphere of peace.
History
In 563 Columba, a monk from a noble Irish family, came to Iona with twelve companions and founded a monastery. From here his community spread Christianity among the Picts and the Scots, and later monks from Iona founded Lindisfarne. The monastery became a great centre of learning: according to many scholars the famous Book of Kells, a masterpiece of medieval illumination now in Dublin, was begun here around 800.
From the end of the 8th century the island suffered Viking raids: in 806 sixty-eight monks were killed on a beach, known ever since as Martyrs' Bay, and the surviving monks moved to Ireland with the relics. In 1203 a community of Benedictines settled on the island and built the abbey, followed shortly afterwards by a nunnery of Augustinian canonesses. After the Reformation the buildings fell into ruin. In 1938 the minister George MacLeod founded the Iona Community, an ecumenical Christian community that rebuilt the abbey and is still active.
- 563St Columba founds the monastery
- c. 800The Book of Kells is probably begun
- 806The Vikings kill sixty-eight monks
- 1203The Benedictines found the abbey
- 1938George MacLeod founds the Iona Community
What to see
The abbey
The abbey, restored in the 20th century, is one of the oldest and most evocative places of worship in Scotland. You visit the church, with its medieval carvings, and the cloister, with modern capitals carved with plants and birds. The small museum holds an extraordinary collection of carved crosses and grave slabs. In front of the entrance stands St Martin's Cross, an 8th-century Celtic cross still in its original position.
The burial ground of kings
Next to the abbey is the Reilig Odhráin, the oldest burial ground on the island, with the little chapel of St Oran. According to tradition dozens of Scottish kings were buried here, including Macbeth and King Duncan, whom he killed, together with Irish and Norwegian rulers.
The nunnery and the village
Near the jetty are the pinkish ruins of the Augustinian nunnery, among the best preserved in Britain, surrounded by a garden. The village has a few houses, a shop, cafés and an art gallery.
The beaches and the hill
The island is explored on foot. From the hill of Dùn Ì, the highest point, you can see all the surrounding Hebrides. On the west coast is the beach called the Bay at the Back of the Ocean, and in the south the bay where, according to tradition, Columba landed, covered in colourful pebbles. In summer boat trips leave from here for the island of Staffa, with Fingal's Cave and its basalt columns.
Practical information
The abbey is cared for by Historic Environment Scotland; tickets are bought on the island. Visitors cannot bring cars to Iona, which is explored on foot or by bicycle. Those who want to stay overnight will find a few hotels and B&Bs, best booked in advance.
Getting there
- By ferry: from Oban to Craignure, on the Isle of Mull (45 minutes), then a bus to Fionnphort (about an hour and a quarter) and the ferry to Iona (10 minutes).
- On a tour: in summer day trips from Oban are organised, including all transfers.
- By air: Glasgow Airport is about three hours from Oban.
Nearby
- The Isle of Mull, with the colourful village of Tobermory and Duart Castle.
- The island of Staffa and Fingal's Cave.
- The town of Oban, with its distillery. See also the history of Scotland.
Tips
- How long: a day from Oban; better still, stay a night to enjoy the island when the day visitors leave.
- When to go: May to September.
- A tip: leave Oban early and allow time for the beaches too: Iona is not just the abbey.