Dunluce Castle, on the north coast of Northern Ireland, is one of the most romantic ruins in Europe. It clings to the edge of a basalt cliff dropping sheer into the Atlantic, linked to the mainland by a bridge, its walls seeming to grow out of the rock. Beneath the castle the sea has carved a cave, and legend says that one day part of the kitchen collapsed into the waves. A few kilometres from the Giant's Causeway, it is an essential stop on the Causeway Coastal Route.
History
The first castle was probably built in the 13th century by the Anglo-Norman Earls of Ulster. In the 15th century it passed to the Irish clan of the MacQuillans, and in the mid-16th century it was captured by the MacDonnells, a clan of Scottish origin led by the famous Sorley Boy MacDonnell, who long defended it against the English.
In 1588, during the failed attack of the Spanish Armada on England, the galleass Girona was wrecked nearby, at Lacada Point, with about 1,300 men on board: very few survived. The MacDonnells salvaged the cannons, which were mounted on the castle, and according to tradition used the proceeds of the ship's treasure to pay for enlargements. In the early 17th century, under Randal MacDonnell, 1st Earl of Antrim, a small merchant town grew up beside the castle, Dunluce Town, now being excavated by archaeologists. After the middle of the century the family moved elsewhere and the castle fell into ruin.
- 13th centuryThe first castle is built
- c. 1550The MacDonnells capture the castle
- 1588The Spanish Armada galleass Girona is wrecked nearby
- 1608The small town of Dunluce Town is founded
- 1639According to legend, the kitchen falls into the sea
What to see
The ruins
You cross the bridge that replaced the old drawbridge and enter the upper courtyard. Among the remains stand the two round towers of the MacQuillan period, the manor house with its large Renaissance-style windows, the loggia inspired by Scottish models and the remains of the kitchen, on the edge of the cliff. Every corner looks out over the Atlantic, with Rathlin Island and, on clear days, the coast of Scotland on the horizon.
Dunluce Town
On the lawn in front of the entrance lie the remains of the 17th-century merchant town, with traces of streets and houses. Excavations have uncovered coins, pottery and everyday objects, displayed in the small visitor centre.
The cave and the cliff
Beneath the castle opens the Mermaid's Cave, which runs through the rock to the sea; it cannot be visited, but you can see its mouth from the path. The best spot to photograph the castle is the cliff to the east, along the coast road.
The castle on screen
Game of Thrones fans will recognise in Dunluce, with the help of digital effects, the stronghold of Pyke, seat of House Greyjoy.
Practical information
The castle is open all year round and is cared for by Northern Ireland's historic environment service; there is an admission charge. The site is exposed to the wind and the paths can be slippery. Opening times are on the official website.
Getting there
- By car: along the A2, about 5 kilometres east of Portrush; free parking.
- By bus: in summer the Causeway Rambler links Portrush, Bushmills and the Giant's Causeway.
- By air: City of Derry Airport is about 50 minutes away, Belfast International about an hour.
Nearby
- The Giant's Causeway and the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge.
- Bushmills, with its whiskey distillery, and Portrush, with its beaches.
- The coast road to Belfast.
Tips
- How long: an hour for the castle.
- When to go: all year round; at sunset the light on the cliff is superb.
- A tip: combine Dunluce with the Giant's Causeway and Carrick-a-Rede in a single day along the coast.