Glencoe and Ben Nevis are two of the iconic places of the Scottish Highlands, a few kilometres apart in the Lochaber region. Glencoe is a narrow, dramatic valley enclosed by volcanic mountains, marked by one of the most notorious massacres in Scottish history. Ben Nevis, a little to the north above the town of Fort William, is the highest mountain in the United Kingdom. Together they are a paradise for walkers, climbers and photographers.
History
Glencoe was born from an ancient collapsed volcano, later shaped by glaciers. A branch of Clan MacDonald lived in the glen. In 1691 King William III required the Highland chiefs to swear allegiance to him by 1 January 1692. The chief of the MacDonalds of Glencoe, Alasdair MacIain, took the oath a few days late, and the government decided to make an example. On 13 February 1692 soldiers of a regiment led by Robert Campbell of Glenlyon, who had been the MacDonalds' guests for almost two weeks, rose at dawn and killed their hosts: about 38 people died, and others perished in the snow as they fled. The Massacre of Glencoe caused an enormous scandal, because it violated the sacred law of hospitality.
On Ben Nevis, between 1883 and 1904, a weather observatory operated on the summit, whose ruins remain. Today much of Glencoe is protected by the National Trust for Scotland.
- 1692The Massacre of Glencoe, on 13 February
- 1883The observatory on the summit of Ben Nevis opens
- 1904The observatory closes
- 1935The National Trust for Scotland begins acquiring land at Glencoe
- 2012The glen appears in the James Bond film Skyfall
What to see
Glencoe
Driving along the A82 from the south, you cross the desolate moorland of Rannoch Moor and arrive in front of Buachaille Etive Mòr, a pyramid-shaped mountain that is one of the most photographed sights in Scotland. The glen continues between ever higher walls to the Three Sisters, three rocky spurs side by side. The National Trust for Scotland visitor centre explains the geology, wildlife and history of the massacre, and paths such as the Signal Rock trail start from there. For fit walkers, the Lost Valley is a hidden valley where the MacDonalds hid stolen cattle. The glen has appeared in many films, including Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban and Skyfall.
Ben Nevis
Ben Nevis is 1,345 metres high. The main path, the Mountain Track, starts from Glen Nevis and takes on average seven to nine hours there and back: it is not technical, but the weather at the top is often severe, with mist and snow even in summer. The high, vertical north face is one of the most famous destinations in British climbing, especially on ice.
Glen Nevis and the gondola
Those who do not want to climb to the summit can walk in Glen Nevis to Steall Falls, one of the highest waterfalls in Scotland, through a wooded gorge. Just north of Fort William, the Nevis Range gondola climbs neighbouring Aonach Mòr to about 650 metres, with a magnificent view of Ben Nevis and the lochs.
Practical information
For walks you need boots, waterproof clothing, a map and an up-to-date forecast. The summit of Ben Nevis should be approached with caution: in mist, navigation is difficult. Fort William, which calls itself the "Outdoor Capital of the UK", has accommodation, outdoor gear shops and guides.
Getting there
- By train: on the West Highland Line from Glasgow to Fort William, or on the sleeper from London.
- By bus: services between Glasgow and Fort William stop at Glencoe.
- By car: along the A82, about two and a half hours from Glasgow.
- By air: Glasgow Airport is about two and a half hours away, Inverness Airport about two hours.
Nearby
- The Glenfinnan Viaduct and the Road to the Isles.
- Loch Lomond, on the road from Glasgow.
- Eilean Donan Castle and the Isle of Skye.
Tips
- How long: two or three days for Glencoe, Glen Nevis and perhaps the summit.
- When to go: May to September; in June the days are very long.
- A tip: stop at dawn at the lay-by facing Buachaille Etive Mòr, near the Kings House Hotel: red deer often graze a few metres from the road.