The Isle of Skye

The Isle of Skye, the largest of the Inner Hebrides off the west coast of Scotland, is one of the most spectacular places in Europe. Black, jagged mountains, rock pinnacles, waterfalls plunging into the sea, cliffs and crystal-clear pools make up landscapes that seem to belong to another planet. Linked to the mainland by a bridge, it is the best-loved destination in the Highlands, yet it still keeps quiet corners and villages where Gaelic is spoken.

History

Skye has been inhabited for thousands of years, as shown by Iron Age remains, the brochs, round stone towers. For centuries it was part of the Norse Kingdom of the Isles, until in 1266 it passed to the Scottish crown. The island was then dominated by two great clans, the MacLeods, based at Dunvegan Castle, and the MacDonalds.

In 1746, after the defeat at Culloden, Bonnie Prince Charlie fled to the island disguised as a maid with the help of a young woman, Flora MacDonald: the episode is remembered in the famous Skye Boat Song. In the 19th century, during the Highland Clearances, many inhabitants were driven from their land to make way for sheep and had to emigrate. In 1995 the Skye Bridge opened, making the island reachable by car at any time.

What to see

Trotternish

The Trotternish peninsula, in the north-east, has some of the most famous sights. The Old Man of Storr is a rock pinnacle about 50 metres high, reached by an uphill path of about an hour. Further north, the Quiraing is a landscape of landslips, towers and grassy plateaus, perfect for a walk. Along the coast you can admire Kilt Rock, a cliff of basalt columns with Mealt Falls dropping into the sea.

The Cuillin and the Fairy Pools

The Cuillin are the most rugged mountains in the British Isles, loved by climbers. At their foot, in Glenbrittle, the Fairy Pools are a series of waterfalls and very clear blue pools; the brave swim in the icy water.

Portree and Dunvegan

Portree, the main town, has a little harbour lined with brightly painted houses. To the west stands Dunvegan Castle, home of the chiefs of Clan MacLeod for about eight hundred years and the oldest continuously inhabited castle in Scotland: among its treasures is the legendary Fairy Flag, a silk banner said to have protected the clan in battle.

Neist Point and Talisker

At the western tip, Neist Point lighthouse is a magnificent spot for sunset and for seeing whales and dolphins. On the shore of Loch Harport you can visit the Talisker distillery, which makes a peaty, maritime whisky.

Practical information

Skye is very busy from May to September: accommodation must be booked well in advance and the car parks at the most famous spots fill up early. Roads are often single-track with passing places. The weather changes quickly, so bring walking boots and a waterproof jacket.

Getting there

• By car: across the Skye Bridge from Kyle of Lochalsh, or by ferry from Mallaig to Armadale.
• By bus: from Inverness and Glasgow to Portree.
• By train: to Kyle of Lochalsh or Mallaig, then a bus or ferry.
• By air: Inverness Airport is about two and a half hours from Portree.

Nearby

• Eilean Donan Castle, just before the bridge.
• The Glenfinnan Viaduct on the road to Mallaig.
• The village of Plockton and the Applecross peninsula.

Tips

• How long: at least three days.
• When to go: May, June and September, when the days are long and it is less crowded.
• A tip: reach the Old Man of Storr at dawn: the sun rises right behind the pinnacle and you will have the path almost to yourself.

Isle of Skye on the map

Nearby