St Davids, the city of St David

St Davids, in Pembrokeshire, at the south-western tip of Wales, is the smallest city in the United Kingdom: fewer than two thousand inhabitants, but a magnificent cathedral, because St David, the patron saint of Wales, is buried here. Hidden in a valley to protect it from pirates, the purple-stone cathedral stands beside the ruins of the Bishop's Palace, a stone's throw from one of the most beautiful coastlines in Europe, protected by the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park.

History

According to tradition David, in Welsh Dewi Sant, was born on these cliffs in the 6th century, the son of St Non, and founded a monastery here with a very strict rule: the monks worked the land without draught animals, drank only water and ate bread and herbs. David died on 1 March, around 589, and that day is still the Welsh national day. The monastery was plundered several times by the Vikings.

In the 12th century Pope Callixtus II decreed that two pilgrimages to St Davids were worth one to Rome, and the city became a hugely important destination. In 1181 Bishop Peter de Leia began the present cathedral. In the 14th century Bishop Henry de Gower built the splendid Bishop's Palace. For centuries St Davids held the title of city thanks to its cathedral; in 1994 Queen Elizabeth II officially confirmed it. For background see the history of Wales.

What to see

The cathedral

You go down to the cathedral from the medieval Tower Gate, by a flight of steps known as the Thirty-Nine Articles. Inside, you notice the nave floor rising uphill, the slightly leaning Romanesque arches, the result of an earthquake and unstable ground, and the splendid 16th-century oak ceiling. In the choir are carved stalls with amusing figures; behind the altar, St David's shrine, restored in 2012, is once again a place of pilgrimage. The cathedral hosts concerts and a music festival in spring.

The Bishop's Palace

Next to the cathedral stand the ruins of the Bishop's Palace, cared for by Cadw. Even in ruins it shows the wealth of the medieval bishops: the great hall, the arcaded parapet decorated with chequered stonework, the rose windows and the carvings of heads and animals.

The coast

A few minutes away are the chapel and St Non's Well, where according to tradition David was born, Whitesands beach, popular with surfers, and the headland of St Davids Head. From the little harbour of St Justinian boats leave for Ramsey Island, a nature reserve with grey seals, dolphins and seabirds, and for sea trips among caves and cliffs. The Pembrokeshire Coast Path passes right here.

Practical information

The cathedral is open every day and free, with a suggested donation; the Bishop's Palace charges admission. The village has shops, art galleries and cafés around the square with its ancient cross. Opening times are on the cathedral and Cadw websites.

Getting there

• By train and bus: by train to Haverfordwest, then a bus to St Davids in about 45 minutes.
• By car: along the A487, about 25 kilometres from Haverfordwest.
• By air: Cardiff Airport is about two and a half hours away.

Nearby

• Ramsey Island and, further south, the islands of Skomer and Skokholm with their puffins.
• Pembroke Castle, birthplace of Henry VII, and the beaches of Tenby.
• Swansea and Cardiff; see also Welsh traditions.

Tips

• How long: half a day for the cathedral and palace, two or three days for the coast.
• When to go: May to September; 1 March for St David's Day.
• A tip: walk down to the cathedral from the centre and stop at the top of the steps: the view of the church in the valley is unforgettable.

St Davids on the map

Nearby