Harlech Castle rises on a rocky spur above the coast of north-west Wales, with the mountains of Eryri behind it and Cardigan Bay in front. Built by Edward I of England at the end of the 13th century to subdue the Welsh, it is one of the finest medieval castles in Europe and, together with Caernarfon, Conwy and Beaumaris, forms part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Castles and Town Walls of King Edward in Gwynedd. It withstood the longest siege in British history, remembered in a famous song.
History
After defeating the last independent Welsh prince, Edward I had a series of fortresses built between 1283 and 1290 to control north Wales. The designer was Master James of St George, an architect from Savoy, one of the greatest castle builders of the Middle Ages. Harlech has a concentric plan: two rings of walls, one inside the other, with an enormous gatehouse and four round towers at the corners. At the time the sea came right up to the foot of the rock, and a stairway of 108 steps, the "Way from the Sea", allowed the castle to be supplied by ship even during sieges.
In 1404 the castle was captured by Owain Glyndŵr, the last Welshman to proclaim himself Prince of Wales, who held his court and parliament here until 1409. During the Wars of the Roses the Lancastrians held out here for seven years, from 1461 to 1468: the longest siege in British history, which according to tradition inspired the song Men of Harlech, now a Welsh patriotic anthem. In 1647 Harlech was the last Royalist castle to fall in the English Civil War.
- 1283Edward I begins building the castle
- c. 1290The castle is completed
- 1404Owain Glyndŵr captures Harlech
- 1461-1468The longest siege in British history
- 1647The last Royalist castle to fall in the Civil War
- 1986The castle becomes a UNESCO World Heritage Site
- 2015The new access footbridge and visitor centre open
What to see
The walls and the gatehouse
You enter across a modern footbridge, which follows the route of the old drawbridge, and arrive at the great gatehouse, the defensive heart of the castle, with its twin towers. From here you climb onto the walls, which offer an extraordinary view of the bay, the Llŷn Peninsula and the peaks of Eryri, including Snowdon on clear days.
The inner ward and the towers
In the inner ward you can make out the remains of the great hall, the kitchens, the chapel and the granaries. The four corner towers can be partly climbed, by narrow, steep stairs. Below, along the rock, you can see the Way from the Sea, the fortified stairway descending towards the old shoreline, now some distance away as the sea has retreated.
The visitor centre
The visitor centre, at the foot of the castle, tells the story of the fortress, Edward I and Owain Glyndŵr with panels, reconstructions and an exhibition. There is also a café with a view.
Practical information
The castle is managed by Cadw, the Welsh heritage body, and is open all year, with shorter hours in winter. The tower stairs are narrow and have no handrail in places. Opening times and prices are published on the Cadw website. In Wales all signs are in Welsh and English.
Getting there
- By train: on the Cambrian Coast line to Harlech, then a short but steep walk up.
- By car: on the A496, about 20 minutes from Porthmadog; car parks in the village.
- By air: the nearest airports are Liverpool and Manchester.
Nearby
- The great Harlech beach, with its dunes and the Royal St David's golf course.
- The Italian-style village of Portmeirion, about 20 minutes away.
- Edward I's other castles: Caernarfon, Conwy and Beaumaris. See also the history of Wales and the UNESCO sites of the United Kingdom.
Tips
- How long: an hour and a half to two hours.
- When to go: all year round; at sunset the light over the bay is magnificent.
- A tip: after your visit go down to the beach and look up at the castle on its rock: from there you understand why it seemed impregnable.