Wales is a land of song, poetry and ancient customs, many of which survive today or have been rediscovered in recent decades. At the centre of it all is the Welsh language, Cymraeg, which gives the country's traditions a character unique in the United Kingdom. For historical context see the history of Wales.
The Eisteddfod, festival of poetry and song
The most important tradition is the Eisteddfod, a festival of competitions in poetry, music, singing and recitation. The first on record was organised in 1176 by Lord Rhys at Cardigan Castle, but the modern form dates from the 19th century. Today the National Eisteddfod is held every year in the first week of August, alternating between a location in the north and one in the south, and attracts more than 150,000 visitors. It takes place entirely in Welsh, with simultaneous translation for those who do not speak it. The most solemn moments are the ceremonies of the Gorsedd, an assembly of poets and artists in white, green and blue robes devised in the 18th century by Iolo Morganwg: the winner of the poetry in traditional strict metre, cynghanedd, receives a carved chair, and the winner in free verse a crown. There is also the youth Eisteddfod, the Urdd, one of Europe's largest youth festivals, and since 1947 Llangollen has hosted the International Musical Eisteddfod, born after the war to promote peace between peoples.
Choirs, harps and rugby
Wales is called "the land of song". Male voice choirs, born in the mining valleys and Methodist chapels of the 19th century, are an institution, and before rugby matches at the Cardiff stadium tens of thousands of fans sing the national anthem Hen Wlad Fy Nhadau, "Land of my fathers", in a spine-tingling atmosphere. The national instrument is the triple harp, with three rows of strings. Rugby is almost a civic religion: the national team's victories, especially against England in the Six Nations, are lived as national celebrations.
Festivals and the calendar
- Dydd Santes Dwynwen (25 January): the feast of Saint Dwynwen, patron saint of lovers, the "Welsh Valentine's Day". The traditional gift is the love spoon, llwy garu, hand-carved in wood with symbols such as hearts, chains and keys: young men gave them to the women they loved as early as the 17th century.
- Dydd Gŵyl Dewi (1 March): the feast of Saint David, patron saint of Wales. People pin a leek or a daffodil, the national symbols, to their clothes, children go to school in traditional costume and parades march through the towns.
- Calan Mai (1 May): the festival of the start of summer, once celebrated with dancing and bonfires.
- Nos Galan Gaeaf (31 October): the night of the start of winter, the ancestor of Halloween, when tradition held that spirits roamed abroad along with the dreaded tailless black sow, the Hwch Ddu Gwta.
- Plygain: in the weeks around Christmas, in country churches, groups of men sing ancient carols unaccompanied in close harmony. The service was once held between three and six in the morning on Christmas Day.
- Mari Lwyd: between Christmas and early January, a group carries from house to house a horse's skull covered with a white sheet and decorated with ribbons, and challenges the householders to a contest of improvised verse before being invited in to eat and drink. The custom, almost extinct, has come back into fashion.
- Calennig (1 January): children went from house to house wishing a happy new year and receiving coins, sweets or decorated apples.
Costume, food and symbols
The women's traditional costume, with its tall black hat, shawl and striped apron, was codified in the 1830s by Lady Llanover, a great promoter of Welsh culture, based on the clothes of country women. The national symbol is the red dragon, Y Ddraig Goch, which dominates the flag.
In the kitchen Wales offers Welsh cakes, small sweet griddle cakes, bara brith, a sweet bread with dried fruit soaked in tea, cawl, a lamb and leek broth regarded as the national dish, Welsh rarebit, toast topped with melted cheese, ale and mustard, and laverbread, a seaweed purée typical of the south coast. Welsh lamb and Caerphilly cheese enjoy protected designation status.
The language, heart of the traditions
All these customs are bound up with the survival of Welsh, which the government aims to bring to a million speakers by 2050. The latest census, however, recorded a decline.
See also Wales, the languages of the United Kingdom and Cardiff.