The Marble Arch Caves, in County Fermanagh in south-west Northern Ireland, are one of the finest show cave systems in Europe. A guided tour takes visitors deep into Cuilcagh Mountain, first by boat along an underground river and then on foot among stalactites, stalagmites and great chambers carved by water. The caves are at the heart of a UNESCO Global Geopark that straddles the border with the Republic of Ireland.
History
The caves formed over millions of years thanks to three streams that flow down the slopes of Cuilcagh Mountain and, when they meet the limestone, disappear underground. The slightly acidic water slowly dissolved the rock, carving passages and caverns, then joined into a single underground river that re-emerges at a spring near a natural limestone arch, the Marble Arch, which gives the system its name.
The first to explore them, in 1895, was the famous French speleologist Édouard-Alfred Martel, considered the father of modern cave science, together with the Irish naturalist Lyster Jameson: they advanced by candlelight in a small canvas boat. Exploration continued in the 20th century, and in 1985 the caves opened to the public after walkways and lighting were installed. In 2008 the Marble Arch Caves Global Geopark was created, the world's first cross-border geopark, shared with County Cavan.
- 1895Édouard-Alfred Martel explores the caves
- 1985The caves open to the public
- 2008The cross-border UNESCO Global Geopark is created
- 2015The boardwalk on Cuilcagh Mountain opens
What to see
The cave tour
The guided tour lasts about 75 minutes. You go down into the cave and board an electric boat that glides silently along the underground river beneath lit vaults of rock. Then you continue on foot along walkways through chambers rich in formations: stalactites as thin as straws, calcite flows like waterfalls, columns and formations with fanciful names. At one point you walk along a passage cut through the middle of the river, with water on both sides. Inside, the temperature is about 10 degrees all year round.
The Marble Arch and Cladagh Glen
Outside, a woodland path leads down through Cladagh Glen to the Marble Arch, the natural limestone arch under which the river re-emerges. The damp woodland, rich in mosses and ferns, is a nature reserve.
The Cuilcagh Boardwalk
On the mountain above, the Cuilcagh Boardwalk, nicknamed the "Stairway to Heaven", is a long wooden path across a protected blanket bog that ends with a staircase climbing towards the ridge. From the viewing platform at the top the view stretches over Counties Fermanagh and Cavan. The full route there and back takes about three hours.
Florence Court
A few minutes away is Florence Court, an 18th-century Georgian house of the National Trust, with a large park and a walled garden.
Practical information
The caves are usually open from spring to autumn; after heavy rain tours may be suspended, because the river rises quickly. It is best to book and check opening on the day. Wear comfortable shoes and bring a jacket.
Getting there
- By car: about 20 minutes from Enniskillen, near the village of Florencecourt; there is no direct public transport.
- By air: Belfast International and City of Derry airports are about an hour and a half away.
Nearby
- Enniskillen, a town on an island between lakes, with its castle and museum.
- Lough Erne, a lake system with islands and ancient monasteries, such as Devenish and mysterious Boa Island with its Celtic statues.
- Belfast and the rest of Northern Ireland.
Tips
- How long: half a day for the caves and Marble Arch, a full day with the Cuilcagh Boardwalk.
- When to go: May to September, after a few dry days.
- A tip: after the tour, walk down Cladagh Glen to the arch: it is the best way to understand how the river leaves the mountain.