Tintern Abbey, in the valley of the River Wye on the border between Wales and England, is one of the most beautiful monastic ruins in Britain. The great roofless Gothic church, with its soaring windows framing the woods and hills, has enchanted painters and poets for centuries: J. M. W. Turner painted it several times and William Wordsworth dedicated one of his most famous poems to it. Today it is cared for by Cadw.
History
In 1131 the Anglo-Norman nobleman Walter de Clare, lord of Chepstow, founded an abbey here for Cistercian monks from France: it was the second Cistercian abbey in Britain and the first in Wales. The monks followed a strict rule of prayer, silence and work, and chose this isolated spot at the bottom of the valley, close to the water.
Between 1269 and 1301, with the support of Roger Bigod, Earl of Norfolk, the Romanesque church was replaced by a great Gothic church, the one whose ruins we admire today. In 1536 the abbey was closed in the Dissolution of the Monasteries ordered by Henry VIII, and the roof was stripped to sell its lead.
At the end of the 18th century, when the fashion for the picturesque tour brought tourists down the Wye by boat, the ivy-covered ruins became an essential stop. In 1798 the young William Wordsworth wrote nearby his Lines Written a Few Miles above Tintern Abbey, published in the Lyrical Ballads he wrote with Coleridge, considered the manifesto of English Romanticism. For background see the history of Wales.
- 1131Walter de Clare founds the Cistercian abbey
- 1269Building of the Gothic church begins
- 1301The new church is consecrated
- 1536The abbey is closed by Henry VIII
- 1798Wordsworth writes his lines on Tintern
What to see
The church
The abbey church is almost complete except for the roof: you walk along the nave between rows of piers, under very high arches, with grass instead of a floor and sky instead of vaults. The great west window and the east window, behind the altar, still keep their elegant stone tracery. On sunny days the light draws shadows that change with every hour.
The monastic buildings
Around the church you can make out the remains of the cloister, the chapter house, the refectory with its windows, the kitchens, the dormitory and the infirmary, as well as the channels that brought water from the river. Panels and a small exhibition describe the daily life of the monks and the lay brothers who worked the land.
The Wye Valley
Tintern lies in the heart of the Wye Valley, a protected Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. From the village a path climbs to the Devil's Pulpit viewpoint, along the ancient boundary of Offa's Dyke, from which you see the abbey from above, on the bend of the river. You can also cross the river on the old railway bridge and walk in the woods on the English bank.
Practical information
The abbey is open all year round and is cared for by Cadw. Nearby are a shop and the village's cafés and pubs. Opening times and prices are on the Cadw website.
Getting there
- By bus: on the route between Chepstow and Monmouth, which stops outside the abbey.
- By train: to Chepstow, then a bus or taxi (about 10 kilometres).
- By car: along the A466; parking next to the abbey.
- By air: Bristol Airport is about 45 minutes away, Cardiff Airport about an hour.
Nearby
- Chepstow Castle, one of the oldest stone castles in Britain.
- Monmouth and the Forest of Dean.
- Cardiff, Newport and Bristol.
Tips
- How long: an hour and a half for the abbey, half a day with the Devil's Pulpit.
- When to go: all year round; in autumn the woods of the valley are splendid.
- A tip: arrive towards evening, when the groups have gone: the low light passing through the empty windows is the most beautiful moment.