Durham Cathedral and Castle

Durham Cathedral and the castle beside it, on a loop of the River Wear, form one of the finest views in Europe. Begun in 1093, the cathedral is considered the greatest masterpiece of Norman Romanesque architecture in England, and holds the tombs of St Cuthbert and the Venerable Bede. The castle, for centuries the residence of the powerful Prince-Bishops, is now a university college. Together they have been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1986.

History

After the Viking raid on Lindisfarne, the monks wandered for more than a century carrying the body of St Cuthbert. According to tradition, in 995 they came to a hill surrounded by the river, and the saint indicated that he wished to rest there: Durham was born. After the Norman Conquest, Bishop William of St Calais began the great stone cathedral in 1093, completed in about forty years. For centuries the bishops of Durham were Prince-Bishops, with almost royal powers: they minted coins, had an army and governed north-east England as a bulwark against Scotland. In 1832 Durham University was founded, the third oldest in England, and it was given the castle.

What to see

The nave

On entering, you are struck by the huge columns carved with geometric patterns, zigzags, lozenges and spirals, and by the rib vaults, among the oldest in Europe, which foreshadowed Gothic architecture. On the north door is the Sanctuary Knocker, a bronze lion's head: in the Middle Ages anyone who grasped it could claim sanctuary.

The saints' tombs

Behind the high altar, in the Feretory, a simple slab marks the tomb of St Cuthbert, still a place of pilgrimage. At the opposite end, in the splendid Galilee Chapel, with slender columns and decorated arches, lies the Venerable Bede, monk and historian, author of the first history of the English people.

Open Treasure and the tower

The Open Treasure exhibition route lets you see the monks' dormitory, with its medieval timber roof, and the treasures of St Cuthbert: his 7th-century wooden coffin, his gold and garnet pectoral cross and precious textiles. Those with strong legs can climb the 325 steps of the central tower for a spectacular view of the city. The cathedral cloister appeared in some of the Harry Potter films.

The castle

Durham Castle, founded in 1072, can only be visited on guided tours, as it is still home to students of University College. You see the great hall, the Norman chapel with its carved capitals and the 17th-century Black Staircase.

Practical information

Entry to the cathedral is free, with a suggested donation; Open Treasure and the tower are charged. During services some areas are closed. Castle tours must be booked. Opening times are on the cathedral and university websites.

Getting there

• By train: Durham is on the East Coast Main Line; from London King's Cross in about three hours, from Newcastle in 15 minutes. From the station it is a 15-minute walk.
• By air: Newcastle and Teesside airports are about 40 minutes away.

Nearby

• Walks along the River Wear, below the cathedral, with its old bridges.
• The Beamish open-air museum, which recreates life in the north-east in the 19th and 20th centuries.
• Newcastle and the railway museum at Shildon (see the National Railway Museum). See also the UNESCO sites of the United Kingdom.

Tips

• How long: two to three hours for the cathedral and castle, a full day with the city.
• When to go: all year round; listen to sung Evensong in the late afternoon.
• A tip: for the finest view, go down to Prebends Bridge: the cathedral rises above the trees, reflected in the river.

Durham Cathedral on the map

Nearby