Castle Howard, in North Yorkshire, about twenty kilometres from York, is one of the most spectacular stately homes in England. Despite its name it is not a castle but a grand Baroque palace, with a dome that dominates the Howardian Hills, surrounded by a park of lakes, temples and monuments. It has been the home of the Howard family for more than three centuries, and audiences around the world know it as Brideshead from Evelyn Waugh's novel and as Clyvedon from the series Bridgerton.
History
In 1699 Charles Howard, 3rd Earl of Carlisle, decided to build a new residence on the site of an old castle destroyed by fire, Henderskelfe. He entrusted the design to John Vanbrugh, a soldier and writer of comedies who had never built anything, assisted by the experienced Nicholas Hawksmoor. The result was so striking that Vanbrugh soon received the commission for Blenheim Palace. Construction took more than a century and spanned the lives of three earls: the west wing, in Palladian style, was only completed in the 19th century, which is why the façade is not entirely symmetrical.
In November 1940 a fire destroyed the great dome and part of the house. The family rebuilt the dome in the 1960s, and restoration work continues today, funded largely by visitors.
- 1699The 3rd Earl of Carlisle begins the project with Vanbrugh
- c. 1712The main part of the house is habitable
- 1729Hawksmoor's Mausoleum is begun
- 1940A fire destroys the dome
- 1981The house is Brideshead in the television series
- 2020It becomes Clyvedon in the series Bridgerton
What to see
The house
The heart of the house is the Great Hall, more than 20 metres high, crowned by the painted dome and decorated with columns and sculptures. The route leads through drawing rooms, bedrooms and galleries filled with furniture, porcelain, ancient statues and paintings, with family portraits and works by great masters. The Long Gallery is lined with portraits and books, and the chapel, remodelled in Victorian times, has Pre-Raphaelite stained glass.
The gardens and park
The park is one of the great landscape achievements of the 18th century. The Temple of the Four Winds, Vanbrugh's last work, looks over the valley from a rise; not far away stands Hawksmoor's Mausoleum, a circular temple that Horace Walpole admired so much that he said it would tempt one to be buried alive. In front of the house plays the 19th-century Atlas Fountain, with the titan holding up the globe. You can also visit Ray Wood, with rhododendrons and rare trees, and the large walled garden with roses and vegetables.
The house on screen
Evelyn Waugh's novel Brideshead Revisited tells of a young man's fascination with a great aristocratic family and its home. Castle Howard was chosen as Brideshead both for the celebrated 1981 television series and for the 2008 film. More recently the house became the Hastings family residence in the series Bridgerton.
Practical information
The house opens from spring to autumn and over the Christmas period, when the rooms are decorated; the gardens are open for most of the year. It is best to book online. Next to the entrance there are shops, a café and a playground. Opening times and prices are on the official website.
Getting there
- By train: to Malton, on the line between York and Scarborough, then a taxi (about 15 minutes).
- By car: from the A64, about 30 minutes from York; parking on site.
- By air: Leeds Bradford Airport is about an hour and a quarter away.
Nearby
- York, with its minster and the National Railway Museum.
- Malton, a small town known for its food markets.
- The North York Moors National Park and the coast at Whitby; see also Fountains Abbey.
Tips
- How long: at least half a day, ideally a full day.
- When to go: May to October for the park; December for the decorations.
- A tip: after the house, walk to the Temple of the Four Winds: from there you can see the Mausoleum, the lake and the house together.